Here is a practical, "self-help" Existentialist informed guide for surfers.
from Aaron James, Surfing With Sartre, An Aquatic Inquiry into a Life of Meaning (2017)ch 3 "Control"
Some people of course chronically struggle to get going in a productive direction, even beyond healthy procrastination. Some could really use a regime of mental discipline , with just enough "structure" for healthier habits, at a school or university, church , mosque , or synagogue , a twelve-step program, or the military. But for the fairly well comported, the Southern California style, at its best, is definitely the way to go on the road to flow.
Is there a self-help guide to surfer success? Perhaps, in these seven steps.
First, take it easy. Enjoy the fine weather. Watch the waves. Maybe go for a paddle if the waves aren't doing it today. Chillax. For those of a nonaquatic lifestyle, take ample time in leisure, and don't try to do too much. Leave time for becoming attuned to your books or your music, your garden, or the birds in your neighborhood.
Second, accept. Accept our present circumstances. Because nothing interrupts attuned adaption to this coming moment like resisting the fact that one is , for now, where one is. Seek reconciliation. Check feelings of entitlement. Cultivate grace and gratitude.
Third, persist. Get into a nice rhythm. Check the waves daily. Surf around work. In good or bad waves...For the nonaquatic, persist in learning or in a creative project.
Fourth, focus. Do what is most worth doing. Pass on what is not.
Fifth, leave time. Don't blow a lot of time in mere entertainment, let alone get yourself tied up in a time-sucking high-maintenance house, even if you can afford it. Keep the schedule light, so you can be on it when the waves turn on. When the waves are flat, or you're in a creative lull, seize the day to get miscellaneous tasks done efficiently, so as to free up more time for the most worthy activity.Most important ...control your time. With vigor and virtue, protect it against an out-of-control, money-hungry work culture that cares not about how much you surf, or your quality of life, and that threatens to devour it.
Sixth, with all good wishes of peace for your fellow man and woman, let your watchword be "What are the Joneses to me?" Resist comparing yourself with them, and look away when you do. If they're confused enough to blow their time and stretch their resources on an even bigger house even pricier cars, and ever more demanding jobs to pay for all this, the proper response is not envy but sympathy. Sadly for them, they aren't fortunate enough to be surfers. If they are surfers , they may be confused. And if the surfer Joneses seem to have everything ---including enviable regular surf trips to world-class waves, with photographs for you to see regularly F--book---well, gosh, I know, that's harder. But maybe just focus on the waves near home and the very good life you have (and check social media a lot less).
Seventh, mix it up. As the seasons change, switch up surf breaks and equipment. In California, when the swells come from the South Pacific from mid-spring through mid-fall, you'll probably want to surf the south facing breaks, and then in winter with chiller air and water temps, the north-facing breaks. Try different surfboard shapes....Try playing a new instrument. Do a new kid of art or craft project. Read a new genre of books.
In sum then, the surfer wisdom for success as a person is this Take it easier. Accept. Persist. Focus. Leave time. Don't compare. And mix things up.